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The Wedges | Aligning the motor | Power Valve Covers | Fuel Tank Bracket | Fuel System | Chain and Sprockets | Accelerator Cables | Radiator | Transmission | Clutch | Carbs



My RG500 engine when I first bought it.

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This is how the engine looked when I bought it.  Black and old :-)  So I thought I would treat it to the works and get it performing good and looking great.




This is the motor almost ready, with the carbies on and the motor bead blasted


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As you can see the motor is half done at this stage.  These pictures of my motor show that it has been bead blasted and I threw on a couple of red bolts on the clutch cover to see what it looks like.  In the other picture you can see the physical difference in regards to the standard and TMX carbies.




The wedges  ^


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These pictures are from Mark Dent's bike.  I had to make the same type of wedges for my engine so the ignition cover will clear the fuel bowl bolt does not touch.  My spigots must be shorter because I had to take some material off the cover and my wedges are a bit bigger.  The wedges in case you are wondering are the gold bits of metal between the spigot and the disc cover.




The engine finished and ready to be placed in the frame for alignment


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Aligning the motor  ^


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I have the Mark Drysdale mounting kit and it is all in place and I am using 2 G clamps to hold the upper mounts in place.  I bought bolts from a manufacturer, I just measured from one end of the mount to the other and took the sizes with me and they fit fine.

I am using a small ruler to check the distances between specific points on the engine and the frame.  The frame has been modified to make some room for the clutch cover and the rear mount, go to the Frame page to have a look at pics and info on this.


When I thought that the motor was sitting pretty good in the frame and was straight, I took the frame and engine and swing arm to the bike shop (where I will get the engine dyno tuned) and they made sure the chain line was straight and welded the engine mounts on.  Once the motor was in and the chain was straight I checked the motor and it was in the middle of the frame.




Power Valve Covers  ^


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I had to make a thin power valve cover as the standard one hits the frame, well the bolt holding it in hits the frame as can be seen in the above pictures how close the cover actually comes to the frame.  I used a thin sheet of aluminium to make these.  The standard cover acted as a guide when I marked out what to cut and the when I used the file to make it perfectly round and flush.




Fuel Tank Bracket  ^


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On the bottom of the fuel tank bracket there are normally nuts that are welded on for the bolts.  I ground them off so I can place the coils underneath them and use my own nuts and bolts to secure both the tank bracket and the coils.


I have decided not to mount the coils with the tank brackets.  Instead I have mounted them as illustrated below.  As you can see the fuel pump is mounted there also, and it is a very strong connection there is no movement at all.  I made the bracket that is holding the fuel pump and the coils together, there is a U bolt holding the pump to the bracket.  From memory the pump diameter was 42mm and I used a 45mm U bolt.

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Fuel System  ^


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That is a 2000 model Yamaha R1 fuel pump.  The good thing about this fuel pump is that it's self regulating and has two wires to connect, positive and negative.  The fuel lines are clear and are 5/16 bore (8mm), 18 clamps in total are going to be used and 3 Y splitters.  As you can see in the above pictures and text the fuel pump is mounted with the coils.  There are two pipes exiting the fuel pump, it does not indicate on the pump which is inlet and outlet.  The curved pipe is the outlet pipe, I have placed the R1 fuel filter between the tank and the pump.  When ordering the carbs and you are going to use the pumped system make sure you get the 1.8mm needle valve seat assembly.  I did not get this in the first place and when the bike was started the floats did not close when the bowls were full of fuel and it was overflowing non stop, then once the 1.8mm needle valves were installed I did not have this problem.  They are specifically for pumped or pressurised fuel systems.  The Mikuni part number is 786-36004-A 




Chain and Sprockets  ^


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The first pictures shows the nut and that it has space to fit over the spline of the shaft when tightened fully, therefore allowing the sprocket not to be exactly the width of the space on the shaft, as shown in the next picture.  The second picture shows the RGV250 sprocket on the RG500 engine.  It slides on ok, but is a bit thin and the nut when tightened will not hold the sprocket securely.  I have used two of the standard RGV250 clips that came off the sprocket shaft, in front of the 520 sprocket on the RG shaft. So that when the nut goes on it has something to press up against when it is tightened.  As you can see in the last picture the huge difference in a 530 and 520 sprocket.  The chain line is very near perfect and the wheel spins fairly freely and the chains looks dead straight, but will get the guys to have a look at the chain line once more.  I have mounted the engine and don't plan on moving it until I have to rebuild it.




Accelerator Cables  ^


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The stock cables have to be modified to fit the extra length of the slide in the TMX carbs.  The little metal bit on the end of the outer plastic cover has to be heated and taken off and then the outer cover cut back to allow extra cable to hang out.  I will have the exact measurements for this when I actually do it.   OK I have the measurements, the exposed cable on stock is approx 65mm and the exposed cable needed is approx 85mm, I say approximately cause there is an adjuster screw on each carb, but don't rely on 85mm.  What I did was roughly measure the distance between the bit on the slide where the cable sits and the adjuster screw on the carb.  Then cut back a little less and fit it all and make sure the adjuster screw on the carb is all the way closed when the cable is in and then make sure that the slide is all the way in the closed or idle position.  Then back the screw of until you see the slide move up and there you have it taught accelerator cables ready to go.  I have now noticed with the carbies on the motor and the cables connected the throttle has to be pulled back a fair bit, I think I might have to get a quarter turn throttle.


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I have installed a quarter turn throttle.   The throttle assembly is from a KX250 2000 model.  I had to expose more cable from what is sticking out from standard and also there is a little lip on the end of the RG accelerator cable just where the cable starts to be exposed, I had to grind this smooth so it could fit in the cable adjuster.




Radiator  ^


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I had to figure out where I was going to fill the radiator from and give it an over flow, as the RGV uses the cap in a remotely located situation.  If you have ever seen the RGV rad you will know there is a little plastic bolt on the top right of it.  What I did was weld an alloy pipe onto that and went to a radiator place and picked up a neck, then welded a copper pipe on to that and used a bit of rubber hose to connect them both and it works like a dream.  Easy to get at looks good and does not get in the way of the fairing and the forks at full lock.




Transmission  ^


I just thought that I would post some detailed shots of the tranny as I know I needed them at one point, so hopefully this will help someone else in the future.  The first picture shows the difference between the stock gears and the beefier gears of the NOVA tranny.  The last picture shows the lock washer tabs.  When taking the gearbox out, pay close attention to these little buggers as they become brittle after being bent back and forth a couple of times.  That's why I suggest you change them when taking the tranny out, if you haven't before.




Clutch  ^


This is the shim I bought from rg500.com.  The following is some instructions from rg500.com.

Remove large clutch hub clutch nut with locking washer, remove inside hub assembly, leave larger outer basket in place.  When you remove the inside clutch hub, there will be a thrust washer.  Remove the washer from the drive shaft and then place supplied shim on the shaft, against the centre collar that the clutch bearing rides on.  Reinstall the thrust washer which will sit slightly outboard of the main bearing collar. Then reinstall all components. The supplied shim increases the space between the clutch basket and the clutch hub, most of the time the thrust washer doesn't sit far enough from the centre support collar, so in essence, the centre bearing allows the thrust washer to contact both the inner hub and the outer basket at the same time. Making them drag. They need to float independently, but with little or often no clearance, they rub against one another and you get the typical "drag" effect.


These are the new clutches I got from Barnett.  The part number is TM-35 RQ, the previous part number was YPK-13.  The TM-35 is the part number for the size of the clutches which are a direct replacement for the Kawasaki ZX-6R 95-98 model.  The RQ specifies the material.  From what I was told from someone at Barnett, the RQ material is preferred over the carbon fibre plates.  They also have new carbon fibre plates which are a different composite and do not eat away at the pressure plate and the inner hub.


The clutch basket has been modified for more oil flow. The first pic is from Mark's site, very nice as it has the straight cut gears as well.

The second picture is my clutch basket as you can see I am cleaning the basket from the metal shavings from drilling the holes.




Carbs  ^


The following information was gathered from Mikuni Oz. http://www.mikunioz.com

They have a great website with heaps of information on just about anything Mikuni.



These are the standard setting that the TMX-35 come with

Carb. No.

Main Jet

Pilot Jet

Jet Needle

Throttle Valve










TMX-35 Needles
6EN11-58 Leaner

6EN11-51 Richer



Jet Needles

To correct the fuel mixture at 1/8th to 1/4th throttle slide position it may be necessary to change the Jet Needle. The Jet Needle will have a series of numbers stamped on it.
Example: 6EJ 12-55. The numbers 55 indicate that the outside diameter (O.D.) of the Jet Needle is 2.55mm. A smaller O.D. number gives a richer mixture. A larger O.D. number gives a leaner mixture. Typical Jet Needles available.  The Jet Needle controls the fuel mixture in the midrange (l/4‑3/4) throttle position. The taper of the needle determines the amount of fuel. For example: the thinner the diameter of the needle, the more fuel will be drawn. The thicker the diameter of the needle, the less fuel can be drawn.

Important Tuning Characteristics

The Jet Needle is the tapered rod that is positioned in the throttle valve by the 'E'-Clip. The taper of the needle increases the clearance between the Jet Needle and the fixed Needle Jet outlet as the throttle is opened. As the air flow volume increases past the throttle slide, the fuel volume is also increased to maintain the correct air/fuel ratio.

Needle 'E' - Clip Position

The position of the 'E'-Clip in the Jet Needle is used to correct or change the air/fuel ratio between 1/4th and 3/4th throttle valve position. The 'E'-Clip can be raised or lowered on the Jet Needle. To richen the fuel mixture the 'E'-Clip is lowered on the Jet Needle, raising the Jet Needle. To lean the fuel mixture the 'E'-Clip is raised on the Jet Needle.


VM22/210 sizes10 thru 40 at increments of 2.5

sizes 40 thru 110 at increments of 5


4/042 Large Hex type. Fits TMX.

50 thru 200 at increments of 5
210 thru 500 of increments of 10