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As you can see I have laid the wiring along the bike and have just checked every wire to make sure none of them were cut, and lucky I did to as a couple of wires were old and cut so I replaced them. The AEC Controller was originally mounted at the back of the RG, but on my bike I have placed it right next to the AEC Actuator. This means that the plug or wiring that was needed to mount the AEC Controller at the back of the bike is no longer needed and can be taken out of the wiring loom all together. This is ok to do as it is basically an extension lead and nothing else connects to it.
As you can clearly see the loom at the front of the bike is a big mess and is causing me all sorts of problems like the lights and indicators not working properly sometimes. This will be totally revamped very soon as it can not continue like this. I am in the process of drawing up a wiring plan for my entire bike using the RG500 standard loom and adding the ignition barrel and switch gear of the RGV250. Also I will add the Daytona Temp Gauge, SPA Tacho/Speedo, and the 3 toggle switch panel.
Here you can see that I have ripped the wiring to shreds and am rebuilding it until I am satisfied.
Stay tuned a full update and wiring diagram as well.
Here is the finished wiring loom at the front anyway. It looks a lot better than what I had to deal with before and everything works this time without a problem.
The bike caught fire twice, these are shots from the first fire. I have yet to fix the second incident. The battery wire had a little cut in it which caused the short, that's why the fuse didn't blow. I made some new connections for the coils as well. I used some old throttle cable and covered it in heat shrink and put terminals on it and it works fine and is easy to disconnect.
The speedo sensor was placed on something I thought I will not be replacing on the bike, something that rotates obviously. I glued the magnet on the Mark Drysdale Cush Drive as it is built to last. With the SPA tacho/speedo came the little magnet which is glued onto a part of the bike that rotates so you can get the diameter and then the tacho does the rest with regards to speed and distance travelled. So you can imagine that this measurement has to be spot on.
The pickup is modified to slide up or down the case 4mm. 1mm is equal to about 1 degree of advance when the pick-up is slid up the case and if installed upside down then 4 degrees retard when slid down the case. Click on the pictures for a closer look. For a detailed explanation click here.
I created a small switch panel to get rid of the switch gear on the right hand side as it wont fit because of the accelerator unit, and as you can see, if you click on the picture, it looks much better than the switch gear and does the same job. It runs the kill switch as it is on the switch gear and I have added a switch for the lights and the fuel pump.
Above is the second generation of the dash. I have now added a Daytona Digital Temp gauge and a warning LED for the fuel pump. If the fuel pump wiring is disconnected at any point the LED will not be lite up. I have also cut off the excess metal that held the old standard temp gauge in place.
Standard RG500 Standard RGV250
The diagrams above are the standard of what I had to work with. I used the left switch gear and the ignition barrel from the RGV. I then integrated custom components I bought such as the SPA tacho/speedo, speed sensor, LED brake light, Daytona digital temp gauge, fuel pump, switch panel with 3 toggle switches and warning light for the fuel pump.
This a guess at what the wiring would look like if you didn't want all the extra wiring for the lights and other stuff if you were to race the bike, or keep it as a track tool.
This is what my bike is running at the moment. I thought that this would be a good idea as I have had many problems with my wiring and if I ever need to know anything, I have a picture of it.